2013 Domaine Dujac Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

Burgundy | Pinot Noir

Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media. 93-95pts

"The 2013 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is a gorgeous wine for so many reasons, but especially in the way it constantly changes in the glass. At times, it is the wine's dark, spiced fruit that is pushed forward, while at other times, the bright, citrus-inflected notes typical of the year are more prominent. An exquisite, beautifully layered Burgundy, the 2013 Malconsorts is going to provide fabulous drinking for several decades. Next to the Beaux Monts, the Malconsorts its quite a bit more reserved. Jeremy Seysses notes that yields here were lower than in 2012."

Neal Martin, eRobertParker. 92-94 pts

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Malconsorts has a touch more fruit on the nose than the Beaux Monts '13 at this point, the aromatics possessing more volume. The palate is well balanced and very harmonious with lacy tannins that belie that depth of fruit underneath. This has more breeding than the Beaux Monts at this stage and certainly more persistency in the mouth.

Once upon a time it was always Jeremy who received me at Domaine Dujac, but these days it is his brother Alec who escorted me down to the noisy, busy cellar, a refreshing hive of activity. Once we had finished a brief discussion on the trials of fatherhood (as misguided as my parenting tips forced upon Cécile Gagnard down in Chassagne), we commenced a tasting through both their négoçiant Dujac Fils & Père wines and of course, the domaine. “It was possibly the smallest vintage,” Alec told me, “certainly smaller than 2008, 2010 and 2012, yields hovering around 25hl/ha. There was poor flowering and a lot of sorting had to be done. But we had started off [the season] with low potential quantities. We now leaf-pluck quite aggressively and the fact that you have a lot of millerandé helps in a growing season such as 2013. I find that there are nice textures to the wine. It’s just that the summers have been rather wet so they are not high in sugar. We had to chaptalize, but not as much as in 2011 and we found 2013 to be above 2012 in natural sugar levels generally. We started picking with the Grand Crus on 30 September and finished with the Dujac Fils & Pères. The first morning of the harvest I was quite depressed because of the rot. I wanted to make good wines because my son was born in 2013. But I cheered up as the day went on as I could see the quality of fruit coming in. And as the grapes came in we destemmed less and less, from 60% and then 90% whole bunch, so actually some of the Fils & Père might have more stems.” 

Overall, this was another good set of wines from Dujac with plenty of peaks at the top end, especially with respect to their Chambertin, Romanée Saint Vivant, Bonnes-Mares and Clos-de-la-Roche. If Grand Crus are not your cup of tea, then the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts is harmonious and structured, a quintessential Malconsorts that will doubtless reward cellaring. The challenges of the growing season impact more toward the Village and Premier Crus. There were one or two wines in Chambolle that did not quite convince as equivalents from other growers. Some demonstrated more potential than others, although the real proof will come once they are bottled. Their négoçiant line often represents good value and will drink well over the next four or five years.