2013 Domaine Dujac Clos De La Roche Grand Cru

Burgundy | Pinot Noir

Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media. 94-97pts

"Another superb, multidimensional wine, the 2013 Clos de La Roche boasts remarkable complexity, starting with exquisite aromatics, finely-sculpted fruit and firm yet polished tannins. Layers of flavor flesh out in all directions in a resonant, expansive Burgundy endowed with pure pedigree. There is a lot going on in the glass, although it is the wine's totally sublime sense of harmony that is most captivating at this early stage. I can't wait to taste the 2013 from bottle."

 

Stephen Tanzer , Vinous Media.95 pts

"Bright, dark red. Ripe, complex aromas of black cherry, dark raspberry, smoke and minerals. Broad and soil-driven, with impressive medicinal reserve to the flavors of black fruits, camphor, spices and crushed stone. Dense, vibrant, saline and deep, finishing dry and backward but with excellent sappy energy. This youthfully tight wine will need at least a decade of cellaring."

Neal Martin , Vinous Media.93-95 pts

"The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru does not quite have the same fruit expression on the nose as the barrel sample of Clos-Saint-Denis '13 tasted alongside. It feels a little more contained at the moment, but it opens with aeration with attractive earthy tones. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity and more salinity toward the finish. There is a fine marine influence here, long and tender, a sophisticated Clos-de-la-Roche considering the growing season, yet maybe without the breadth and ambition of the top wines of the vintage. Once upon a time it was always Jeremy who received me at Domaine Dujac, but these days it is his brother Alec who escorted me down to the noisy, busy cellar, a refreshing hive of activity. Once we had finished a brief discussion on the trials of fatherhood (as misguided as my parenting tips forced upon Cécile Gagnard down in Chassagne), we commenced a tasting through both their négoçiant Dujac Fils & Père wines and of course, the domaine. “It was possibly the smallest vintage,” Alec told me, “certainly smaller than 2008, 2010 and 2012, yields hovering around 25hl/ha. There was poor flowering and a lot of sorting had to be done. But we had started off [the season] with low potential quantities. We now leaf-pluck quite aggressively and the fact that you have a lot of millerandé helps in a growing season such as 2013. I find that there are nice textures to the wine. It’s just that the summers have been rather wet so they are not high in sugar. We had to chaptalize, but not as much as in 2011 and we found 2013 to be above 2012 in natural sugar levels generally. We started picking with the Grand Crus on 30 September and finished with the Dujac Fils & Pères. The first morning of the harvest I was quite depressed because of the rot. I wanted to make good wines because my son was born in 2013. But I cheered up as the day went on as I could see the quality of fruit coming in. And as the grapes came in we destemmed less and less, from 60% and then 90% whole bunch, so actually some of the Fils & Père might have more stems.” Overall, this was another good set of wines from Dujac with plenty of peaks at the top end, especially with respect to their Chambertin, Romanée Saint Vivant, Bonnes-Mares and Clos-de-la-Roche. If Grand Crus are not your cup of tea, then the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts is harmonious and structured, a quintessential Malconsorts that will doubtless reward cellaring. The challenges of the growing season impact more toward the Village and Premier Crus. There were one or two wines in Chambolle that did not quite convince as equivalents from other growers. Some demonstrated more potential than others, although the real proof will come once they are bottled. Their négoçiant line often represents good value and will drink well over the next four or five years."