Wolffer Estate Wines: Believe the Hype

A Day Off on the East End

So, on a day off, you've got options on the East End of Long Island, right? Beach, berry or apple picking, maybe a good binge-watch. Or, you could head out to Wolffer Estate. I have to admit, when I first started living and working on Long Island, all the buzz around Wolffer made me a little skeptical about the actual quality. You know how it goes – sometimes when something is super hyped up, it ends up being just okay. Worth a try, maybe, but not exactly a game-changer. But Wolffer? They’ve really impressed me, and their reputation definitely precedes them for a reason.

Nestled just off Montauk Highway on the South Fork of Long Island’s East End, Wolffer Estate is probably the most recognizable name in the local vineyard scene. Though, as a relative newcomer to Long Island, I could be wrong about that. I was immediately struck by the expansive and well-maintained vineyard. While the scale was a little daunting at first, I think that was just the excitement kicking in. The restaurant has a similar charm to the vineyard itself, and the delicious aromas drifting from the tasting room suggested a fantastic pairing with their wines.

Meeting the Winemaker

My tasting journey began with an engaging conversation with Roman Roth, the winemaker. What an insightful mind to pick! With a glass of the 2024 Rosé in hand, I got a firsthand update on this year's harvest and the direction of their wine production. Apparently, this harvest is shaping up to be significantly better than the last, thanks to cooler recent weather and less rainfall, which has allowed the fruit to develop beautifully and express the unique characteristics of the 2024 vintage. Each bottle I sampled had a distinct personality, from the refreshing Rosé to the elegant White Horse Pinot Noir. While the non-alcoholic options were a bit sweeter than my preference, they certainly seem like great options for a chilled beach drink. The balance of acidity, minerality, and fruit in most of the wines I tasted was truly remarkable. The SIB Sauvignon Blanc offered lush fruit notes, balanced by a more restrained acidity and a grounding minerality that tied everything together nicely. The Rosés were particularly impressive, showcasing the excellent quality achievable in local winemaking. While some might find the prices on the higher side, it’s important to consider the current economic climate and widespread inflation. The quality within their core lineup is definitely present, and the White Horse series really captured my attention.

White Horse, Gold Horse, and the Man Behind the Magic

I also had the pleasure of meeting Luka, the driving force behind the development of the White Horse and Gold Horse labels at Wolffer. He’s incredibly knowledgeable about the craft and has a clear vision for the future of these lines. Again, the recent harvest weather has really allowed the best qualities of these grapes to shine through, and Luka has skillfully captured that in these wines. Expect rich and fruity Red Blends, light yet expressive Pinot Noirs, and vibrant Cabernet Francs with that characteristic green stem note that I don't often find in French or South African expressions. Overall, the quality justifies the price point. The Landius, Caya, Fatalis Fatum, and Christian’s Cuvee are all standout examples that are sure to please.

Time for Long Island to Have Its Moment

Beyond the impressive wines, I was particularly drawn to Wolffer’s efforts to advocate for Long Island’s recognition as a significant wine-producing region. Just because wine grapes are grown here doesn’t automatically equate to “wine country.” But I’d argue that Long Island is getting there. To me, wine country is simply a place where numerous vineyards produce high-quality wine. And the East End of Long Island certainly has a number of vineyards. However, it’s often still just categorized as “local wine.” While accurate, this label can sometimes carry certain preconceived notions. You don't hear people in California asking for "local wine" – it's understood that Northern California is wine country. That’s the level of recognition Long Island is striving for – to be acknowledged as a source of exceptional wines. And why shouldn't it be? When the quality is there, accolades should follow, regardless of location. These vineyards work just as diligently, if not more so, than those in established “wine countries.” This vintage from Wolffer is undoubtedly a step in the right direction. While individual tastes will always vary, the overall quality and expression are undeniable.

Try It For Yourself

Ultimately, it’s wise to approach any highly praised product with your own perspective, rather than solely relying on popular opinion. Personal experience is the best way to form your own judgment. If the price point is within your comfort zone, I’d recommend trying Wolffer now. Based on what I’ve seen, if the weather continues to cooperate, we can expect more plentiful, expressive, and high-quality wines coming from this region, which will only increase demand and ultimately offer even better value.